Timetables meet contemporary art in São Paulo’s underground

by Editorial Team | Mar 21, 2011 in Timetables & Scoreboards | 1 Comment

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One of my favorite things about São Paulo is that it is full of surprises. But sometimes the city is so intense you don’t even notice it that much. The other day I was just waiting for the subway and suddenly I realized an amazing panel. A huge colorful stone mosaic made by Tomie Otake, an abstract Japanese artist who lives in Brazil since the 50s. My day was made. My boring waiting time turned into a great contemplative art delight. I knew there were some art works in some subway stations in the city but I didn´t know that our underground system has been displaying even more than 93 contemporary art pieces spread in over 37 stations. So for the theme of the month I decided to go literal and highlight this alternative, “underground” gallery: São Paulo’s subway stations.

The idea to bring contemporary art to the people started 30 years ago when the company opened the Sé central station. The project was a real success. In 1990 they established a commission in partnership with the biggest museums in the city, like MAM (museum of contemporary art) and MASP (São Paulo city museum), to curate the exhibitions at the stations.

My journey to visit the subway galleries started at Barra Funda station on the west side of the city. The station is over ground, which makes Emanoel Araujo’s big white sculpture “Roda” look even more impressive. A suggestion: before boarding, check the two paintings over the platform: Claudio Tozzi’s “Movimento” and José Aguilar’s “O Senhor do Movimento”. They are great! Then ride to the city center, stop by at Santa Cecilia and check the huge surrealistic and colorful painting by Antonio Peticov. Change train at Sé – by the way, the busiest station in the city – and take a look at Waldemar Zaidler painting. It is worth riding all the way up north to Parada Inglesa to see the impressive concrete panel entitled “The Construction of São Paulo” by Maria Bonomi. At the same station check the huge sculpture “O vôo do Xangô” by Gilberto Salvador now all covered in tagging.

Heading back to the center I took the green line to my 2 favorite stations. At Consolação I saw again the Tomie Otake panels that enchanted me before. The huge pieces represent the four seasons with their characteristic colorful and organic abstractions. The last stop is the Sumaré, my favorite station in the city. Built under a bridge and over a big avenue the concrete platform is decorated with Alex Fleming silkscreen on glass poetry installation. If you have the chance, drive on the avenue under the station during the night. You will see both, the piece and the station, in an unexpected and complete different perspective.

Today the stations are already planned together with the artists to have adequate space for their pieces. Now that the São Paulo contemporary and street art scene is really happening I can’t wait to see art in the new yellow line that is due to open in 2012.