Posts Tagged ‘kitchen’

Serendipity in the fridge

Magazine -> #17 Serendipity

I’ve always thought of “local cuisine” as a kind of gastronomic form of serendipity. Why insist on finding fresh galangal in Sweden and smoked venison in Thailand? There’s an element of wisdom in the approach of a generation of chefs who are rediscovering maple syrup in Vermont, in Trapani, reinventing the historic custom of drying octopus,...

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New kaizen italian cuisine

Magazine -> #22 Kaizen

Look in the most authoritative Italian dictionary, and you still won’t find the word kaizen. Italy’s cuisine, however, is one step ahead of its language and the coining of neologisms: it tends to reduce or eliminate the superfluous and concentrate on the essential. In the 2004-2005 edition of the Dizionario della lingua italiana by Giacomo D...

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To eat childhood; three degrees of amazement in the kitchen

Magazine -> #23 Emotion and Surprise

Anyone with a minimum of technical ability can be a wizard in the kitchen. The domestic chef, from whom we expect less, can amaze us with the deliciousness of a well-cooked dish. At advanced amateur (or basic professional) level we are surprised by an original recipe, a combination of flavours, or an unusual presentation. The art of surprise for...

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Vintage: identity vs. ballast

Magazine -> #25 Innovage

“Millésimé”: from superb wines to superb dishes. If identity is built up by accumulating and preserving the past, then there are chefs who preciously pour it out drop-wise across their menus. But when does identity turn into the deadweight of tradition? Chefs are keen at the idea of vintage decanted from the bottle to the dish. Keeping dis...

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Flavoursome blunders

Magazine -> #26 Re-Evaluate The Error

Several years ago, before cordless phones were a standard household appliance, I was busy cooking a starter – crunchy lentils salad with shrimps – when the phone suddenly rang. The caller turned out to be someone with whom I’d had a misunderstanding. It was important and urgent that the matter be ironed out, and I didn’t think it advisable ...

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Rigor and creativity: the way to success

Magazine -> #1 Timetables and scoreboards

WE HAVE ASKED MICHEL ROTH, CUISINE DIRECTOR OF THE RITZ HOTEL IN PARIS, HOW IMPORTANT TIME IS IN A KITCHEN WHERE DAILY ROUTINE IS CHARACTERISED BY LITTLE TIME AND HECTIC RHYTHMS. Passion does not take time into account. I do not count the hours I spend at work, but I do count the time it takes to do a job: there are time limits that are dictated b...

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Sense and sensibility in a hegelian sauce

Magazine -> #21 Senti-mentally

Many years ago while visiting the Picasso Museum in Barcelona I was struck by the comment of a young graduate friend who was later to become an art historian. After having discussed with me the salient features of cubism she rather abruptly concluded: «And to think that this idea that went into the making of the most sign...

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Last Issue: #31 The Journey

Twenty thousand leagues under the sea by Jules Verne (1825-1905). This book is the answer to my thoughts on travel. It certainly anticipated the saga...
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